—AOP systems safely and effectively disinfect water without the typical chlorine aggravation

With advanced oxidation process (AOP)—a remarkably powerful and efficient method for disinfecting swimming pools—you can have swim-ready water without the harsh effects of typical chlorine sanitizing treatments.

This potent treatment safely neutralizes a wide range of contaminants in pool water—including some dangerous pathogens that traditional chlorine treatments cannot tackle.

AOP systems have been used successfully for years in large commercial water-treatment facilities, including those that produce water we drink. Recently, this technology has been adapted for backyard pools, and the results are paying off for pool owners across the country.

What is Advanced Oxidation Process?

Used in tandem with a small amount of chlorine, AOP works by oxidizing both organic and inorganic matter that contaminate swimming environments.

Oxidation may sound like a complicated scientific term. But it’s a basic process that occurs all the time in nature. Have you ever wondered why an apple turns brown after you peel it? That’s oxidation in action.

In a nutshell, oxidation is the loss of electrons which causes a substance to break down. Chlorine—the most widely used pool sanitizer—also works through oxidation.

How AOP works in swimming pools

AOP delivers better results than off-the-shelf chlorine alone. For starters, it provides three times the oxidation potential as chlorine.

It’s also more lethal than two other popular alternative water sanitizers: ozone—a triple-charged form of oxygen—and ultraviolet light (UV). Bottom line, you cannot find another pool sanitation tool that packs the same wallop as AOP!

AOP systems produce ozone molecules and then zap them with UV rays inside an enclosed equipment chamber. This action produces elements known as hydroxyl radicals.

Hydroxyl radicals may sound a little intimidating, but they are completely harmless to swimmers. Time for a quick science lesson: Hydroxyl radical ions form when an oxygen atom bonds with a hydrogen atom.

While AOP devices produce hydroxyl radicals using technology, these elements also exist in nature. In fact, scientists often refer to hydroxyl radicals as a kind of “detergent” for the atmosphere because they help eliminate many airborne pollutants, including greenhouse gasses such as methane.  

Why hydroxyl radicals attack contaminants

Because hydroxyl radicals are unstable, they seek equilibrium. So as soon as they form, hydroxyl radicals seek out both organic and inorganic substances to combine with to help them stabilize.

By attaching to the cells in other various substances, hydroxyl radicals disrupt the composition of those substances—causing them to break down. That’s what makes hydroxyl radicals so effective at removing contaminants

Even better: They complete their work without any chemical after-effects. Here’s why: Once in the pool water, hydroxyl radicals oxidize all contaminants in the water in mere seconds. Then, they simply convert back to oxygen.

This process makes hydroxyl radicals completely safe for pool users while providing fresher, healthier water than any other pool-disinfection weapon.

How AOP devices work: Pairing ozone with

ultraviolet light produces hydroxyl radicals.

10 benefits of hydroxyl-based pool sanitation

Growing numbers of pool owners are seeking alternatives to standard chlorine treatments—and the hassles and hazards they often cause.

Driven by this demand—coupled with technological advances that have lowered the price tags on AOP systems—this technology is becoming increasingly popular in backyards around the country.

Let’s look at the key reasons AOP systems are quickly becoming a favorite choice for maintaining clean, healthy water conditions.

Unmatched cleaning power:

AOP systems easily outperform other pool-water treatment methods, including chlorine, salt-chlorine generation, ozone, and ultraviolet light. AOP’s hydroxyl radicals destroy 99% of organic and inorganic contaminants in pool water.

Hydroxyl radicals also prevent the formation of icky biofilm. Biofilm is an accumulation of slimy, bacterial colonies that sticks to areas of a pool such as the tile line and any stone surfaces. Hydroxyl radicals also inhibit growth of stubborn algae blooms as well.

Greater water clarity:

AOP technology remove the colloids—tiny particles from dissolved metals, gels, lotions, and other inorganic substances—that make the water look cloudy.

It’s worth noting that your pool filter cannot remove all of these compounds. But AOP systems enable your filter to achieve what is typically impossible: AOP produces “micro-flocculation,” a process of aggregating tiny particles into clumps.

Although these clumps are not visible to the human eye, they are big enough for your pool filter to trap and remove from the water. So, instead of a hazy pool, you get brilliant, sparkling water!

Comprehensive disinfection:

AOP’s hydroxyl radicals fully oxidize all kinds of organic contaminants. The range includes sweat, body oils, bacteria, viruses, human waste, and toxins such as pesticides.

AOP also outperforms chlorine on some important fronts. Among the nasty bugs that chlorine cannot eliminate: E. coli, Giardia, Listeria, Salmonella, Legionella, Pseudomonas, and Cryptosporidium parvum (aka “Crypto”).

However, AOP technology has the power to take down these chlorine-resistant microorganisms. For example, it goes after the Crypto parasite by destroying its cell walls. No other pool disinfectant currently in use is as effective in protecting against this serious health threat.

Safer, gentler sanitization:

AOP is lethal to unwanted microorganisms, but not to people and pets who enter the pool. It removes contaminants with no effect on swimmers.

Its efficacy comes without producing toxic byproducts, making AOP much gentler than traditional chlorine treatments. Chlorine creates chloramines—harsh byproducts that wreak havoc for pool users with bleach-like odors, itchy eyes, dry skin, sore throats, parched rough hair, and faded swimsuits. Highly sensitive swimmers may even experience nausea or vomiting.

Unlike chlorine, AOP does not produce these irritating byproducts and the rash of physical side effects that often accompany them. In fact, AOP destroys chloramines, removing some of the unwanted effects they cause.

Faster performance:

Within the first 24 to 48 hours of using AOP, hydroxyl radicals clean, sanitize, and micro-flocculate the water. They work in seconds to oxidize contaminants. Virtually instantaneously, hydroxyl radicals deal a blow to pathogens that chlorine alone would take hours to kill.

Lower chemical demand:

AOP pool systems do not eliminate the need for chlorine and other chemicals. However, they dramatically reduce the requirements for them.

In addition, AOP helps boost the overall effectiveness of the small amount of chemicals that are used.

Easier on your pool:

AOP systems work using a gentle, but effective process. By helping sanitize water without the usual chlorine levels, the odds decrease for damage to certain pool components and systems. The reason: With traditionally chlorinated pools, it’s easy for the water to fall out of balance.

High chlorine levels lower the pH of the water, making it more acidic. Over time, water with low pH can lead to corrosion of metal piping and certain components of pool equipment. Serious water imbalances can also erode pool plaster.

Better water quality:

With lower chemical levels in your pool, AOP-treated water is easier on your eyes, skin, and lungs—making swimming and pool play safer and more enjoyable for everyone.

Due to AOP’s micro flocculent action helping pool filters remove more contaminant particles—including certain metals—many AOP-pool owners say the water not only looks better, it even feels better to the touch.

Environmentally safe:  

After hydroxyl radicals oxidize organic and inorganic contaminants in the water, they quickly convert back to oxygen. No noxious byproducts are produced or left behind.

This process makes AOP an eco-friendly technology. It disinfects pool water better than any other method without damaging the environment. You can feel good that any water that splashes out of the pool won’t harm nearby plants with caustic effects the way heavily chemical-laden water or saltwater-chlorinated water can.

Overall value:

AOP systems deliver maximum sanitation results, and for that, the units’ price tags certainly run more than a bottle of chlorine or bucket of tablets. Initially, this technology also costs more than saltwater, ozone, or combination UV/ozone systems.

The cost for an AOP unit will ultimately depend on the size of your pool. In general, a quality AOP system for a typical pool averages between $700 and $1900 without installation.

However, over the long term, AOP’s many advantages make it a very smart investment. For starters, consider the savings on money for chemicals. AOP requires only minimal chlorine: Fewer chemicals going into the pool translates to less money going out of your wallet.

From a pool-ownership perspective, AOP produces immediate payoffs with water that looks great and provides healthier, more comfortable swimming.

The technology ensures softer, crystal-clear water that’s beautiful to gaze at and that’s free of typical chlorine aggravation. For many pool owners, their families, and their pets, this more attractive, more enjoyable pool experience is hard to put any price on!

Should you install an AOP system in your new or remodeled pool?

The sanitation system is one of the most important components of maintaining your aquatic backyard resort. If you’re thinking about building a pool at your home or modernizing an existing one, you will certainly want to consider including an AOP unit in your equipment line up.

Ultimately, your choice in sanitizing systems will come down to the features and benefits that are most important to you and your family: Easier to keep pool water properly balanced? Amount of chemicals required? Wiping out stubborn pathogens? Stunning water clarity? Silky feel of the water? Environmental impact? Comfort in the water? Overall, long-term value?

All of these factors will play an important role in your decision. The fact remains that AOP represents the pinnacle in pool & spa disinfection—the superior technology on the market. Hydroxyl radicals sanitize quickly and safely, and they will give you polished, healthy sparking pool water like no other system can.

When it comes to my garden, I have always had an easy time growing any type of flowers that I wanted to grow. On the front side of my house, there is barely any shade, so I thought that a rock garden with a lot of flowering succulents would look great in the space. This is a type of plant that is not going to need a lot of care to grow, and most succulents are drought-resistant plants that will make gardening seem easy .  In this guide, we are going to take a look at 10 of the most beautiful flowering succulents that you can find on the market so that you can create your own creation.

Christmas Cactus

A Christmas Cactus is a tropical plant that can handle the heat. It is best in temperatures that are between 65 and 75 degrees Fahrenheit. It will grow in moderate sunlight, and it prefers a bit of humidity to thrive. This is a plant that will grow well in sandy soil, and the pink, purple, or red blooms can be seen around the holidays, which makes them a very popular plant to grow in zones nine through 11. If you are having trouble getting the plant to bloom, then it may need more daylight.

Peanut Cactus

A peanut cactus is a plant that features a bright orange bloom that will appear during the spring of the year. It is a plant that grows best in zones 10 through 12. This cactus has relatively shallow roots, which helps create thick fingers that are shaped a lot like peanuts. They can easily grow to be six inches tall, but they tend to grow out instead of up, and they can grow to be up to 12 inches wide. In most locations, they grow best in full sun, but hotter areas may require a bit of shade.

Aloe

This is a succulent that is great to grow in your home because the juice inside the leaves is great for cuts and burns. In addition, this can be a very beautiful plant that can easily be grown in indirect light. It is a plant that is not going to need to be watered a lot, so to make sure that your plant does not sit in water, you should only give the plant fresh water every three weeks. It will grow best in zones nine through 11.

Orchid Cactus

Growing best in zones 10 and 11, this is a hardy plant that can grow from five to 10 inches across easily. This is a plant that does not bloom very often; in fact, it typically blooms during the night time just a few times a year. You will notice that this is a plant that will not create blooms during the first two years of growth. Typically, this is a plant that will produce flowers on its own, but give them more light, give them potassium fertilizer, and keep the plant in the same location to grow.

Moon Cactus

This is a plant that is recognizable by the pink, orange, and yellow blooms that it produces. This is also a cactus that does not require a lot of water. In fact, you will always want to be careful when you are giving the plant a drink so that it does not become overly saturated and soggy. Moon Cactus are quite unique; they are typically a single stalk with a bright bulb on the top of their head.  This is also another plant that you will find in zones 10 and 11. The leaves of this succulent are rather gorgeous, and it requires minimal care to grow. I have found that this group grows best with a mixture that is slightly more peat moss than perlite. Do not allow the plant to sit in the water because this can only cause problems for the plant. If you have pets, this is a plant that may be unsafe to grow around them.

Crassula (Jade Plant)

This is another tropical succulent that is going to produce beautiful pink, purple, and white blooms. It will grow best in zones nine through 11, and with the right care, it can grow to be four to six feet tall. It is a drought-tolerant plant that does not require a lot of water, but it does need to have full sun to really thrive. Another feature that makes this a very pretty plant to have around is the blue-green foliage that has tips that change in color to maroon or burgundy.

Crown of Thorns

Seen most often in zones nine through 11, this is a lovely plant that produces bright red blooms from early spring until late summer. It prefers to grow in temperatures that are between 60 and 96 degrees Fahrenheit. This is a succulent that will do best with a lot of indirect sunlight. It also requires very little water, so make sure that the top of the soil is dry before you give it more.

Carrion Cactus

Also known as a starfish flower, this is a cactus that has large five-point blooms. The flower itself may look nice, but it actually does not smell all that pleasant. Typically, the flowers are red in color, but they can be more of a brown on some plants. This is a plant that grows best in well-drained soil, and unlike most succulents on this list, it will need to have moist soil to grow.

Opuntia (Prickly Pear Succulent)

This is a succulent that is known to grow well in warm, dry climates. It is often found in zones nine through 11, but some varieties can be found in a wider spread. They grow best in full sun and well-drained soil. In addition, during the months of June and July, you will be able to see red, yellow, and purple blooms. The fruit can also be a variety of colors, which include green, red, orange, and yellow.

Popular Garden Ideas

Sunflowers are not the typical crop that newbie gardeners think of growing, but this might be a mistake. The fact of the matter is that sunflowers are really easy to care for, and they can also lend a notable hand in the garden. Then, of course, there are all those sunflower seeds that make a delicious snack and quickly nullify the need to ever buy sunflower seeds (to sow) again.

Since long before chemical fertilizers and GMO seeds, sunflowers have been a part of agriculture, dating back to at least 3000 BC, and they have been used for all sorts of handy stuff: seeds, oil, medicine, fiber, as well as beauty. Amazingly, sunflowers can sprout up to six feet high in a matter of three months, and seeds are usually harvestable around the same time, possibly extending on to four months.

Besides being a valuable crop in and of themselves, the Helianthus — or sunflower — family is also used to help out the garden as a whole.

Easy-Growing

Any time a productive plant requires little to no inputs and virtually no care, it’s got to make it into the garden somehow. Sunflowers are prairie plants, which has made them very tough, not greatly affected by pests or by drought. They grow in just about any type of soil, and they can survive in both acidic and mildly alkaline pH levels. Once they get themselves established, they are likely there for the long haul, so gardeners won’t be using resources to get (and keep) those sunflowers up. Now that is green gardening.

Just remember not to completely block the sun from the other crops. Putting tall sunflowers on the south side of the garden might not be a great idea. Otherwise, planting them about six inches apart will supply a living fence around the garden or even between beds.

Free Garden Stake

Another popular sunflower function is acting as a free garden stake for climbing vines, such as cucumbers and tomatoes. Unfortunately, sunflowers and green beans — the original garden stake dweller — are known to not be so great of friends. Regardless, sunflowers, like corn, are tall and spindly, so they make great garden stakes for other plants, and they don’t require any extra material. In fact, they can just be composted after the harvest. On the flip side, lettuce likes to grow in the shade of the towering sunflowers.

Beloved (and recently departed) permaculturist, Toby Hemenway, authored a great bookm— Gaia’s Garden — in which he recommended using Helianthus maximaliani, or Maximilian sunflower, as a deer repellent. Otherwise, despite being beautiful animals and welcomed by many into their yards, deer will gladly ransack a garden and strip it down to nearly nothing.

Pest Distraction

More than a repellent, sunflowers are often grown for the quality of distracting pests, specifically aphids, away from other, more tender crops, like tomatoes. Ants, which feed on the aphid-produced honeydew, will encourage and protect aphid colonies to live on sunflowers. It’s one of nature’s outstanding things. No pesticides required.

Sunflowers are also a new green option because they are particularly attractive to bees and other beneficial, pollen-collecting insects and hummingbirds. As most of us are aware by now, the bees need all the help they can get, so if planting sunflowers did nothing more than that, it’d be worth it. Of course, we know that they do much, much more.

Soil Cleansing

Sunflowers are noted as being allelopathic, which means that they emit a chemical that prevents other plants from propagating nearby. In the garden, potatoes and beans are particularly susceptible, so be aware of that. But, this is what makes them so good for garden borders, as they’ll block weeds from growing in. Sunflowers also aid phytoremediation, which is a process that cleans contaminated soils. It’s even been used as an effective soil cleaner in really damaged sites like Chernobyl and post-Katrina New Orleans.

Of course, many people grow sunflowers for the simple fact that they are stunning, massive flowers that brighten up the scene. Whatever your reason, get them in the garden after the last spring frost and expect to harvest into the fall. Lots of people, especially in areas with long frost-free seasons, will plant a new crop every two weeks to have continuous blooms in the fall. Ain’t it grand when being green just works out so well.

For more Life, Animal, Vegan Food, Health, and Recipe content published daily, don’t forget to subscribe to the One Green Planet Newsletter!

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Lillevilla Escape | 113 SQF Allwood Kit Cabin

Faced with the expense (OK, and effort) of building raised beds, I decided instead to go cheap and easy: a straw bale garden. So I called up Joel Karsten, author of Straw Bale Gardens, and lead authority on all things straw.

Karsten argues that straw is an ideal “container” for growing vegetables. “The hollow tubes are designed by Mother Nature to suck up and hold moisture,” he told me. And as the insides of the bales decompose, they provide a rich medium for vegetable growth.

You can put together a straw bale garden right on your lawn, your driveway (oh yes, your neighbors will love you) or anywhere that gets at least six to eight hours of sun. It’s especially good for growers who live in northern climes with shorter growing seasons – the bales heat up much quicker than soil, stimulating early-season root growth.

Here’s the method that has made Karsten the go-to guru for straw bale gardening:

1. Source your straw

You can toss the dice like I did and purchase straw bales from your local garden center, but it’s best to source them direct from the farm. If you want to garden organically, the person at the garden center won’t likely know how the straw was grown. To help connect farmers with growers, Karsten has set up a user-generated marketplace, but it’s still too small to be useful to most gardeners. Remember, straw is easiest to come by in the fall. If you arrange your straw bale garden before the winter, you’ll be all set to plant when springtime comes.

2. Position your bales

Before you set up your bales, lay down landscape fabric to prevent weeds from growing up through the bales. Arrange the bales side by side in rows, with their cut sides up. The strings that bind the bales should run across the sides, not across the planting surface. The strings will help keep the shape of the bales as they start to soften and decompose.

3. Condition the bales

Two weeks before you plant, you have to get the bales cooking. This means wetting and fertilizing the bales for roughly 10 days to start composting the inner straw. For the first six days, put down 3 cups of organic fertilizer per bale every other day, and water the bales to push the fertilizer down and thoroughly saturate the straw. On the off days, simply water the bales. (Tip: try to ignore the neighbors staring suspiciously from their windows.) Days 7 through 9, lay down 1.5 cups of organic fertilizer each day and water. Day 10 put down 3 cups with phosphorus and potassium (bone or fish meal mixed with 50% wood ash works like a charm).

If you stick your finger into your bales, they’ll be hot and moist. You’ll start to see some “peppering” – black soil-like clumps that signal the beginning of the composting that will continue through the growing season. If mushrooms sprout up, rejoice – they won’t harm your plants; it means the straw is decomposing as it should.

4. Build a trellis and greenhouse in one

One of the coolest things about straw bale gardening is that it combines the best of container gardening with vertical gardening. Karsten recommends erecting seven-foot-tall posts at the end of each row of bales, and running wire between them at intervals of 10 inches from the tops of the bales. As your seeds sprout, you can use the bottom wire to drape a plastic tarp to create an instant greenhouse for those chilly early-season nights. And as the plants begin to grow, the wire works like a vertical trellis, supporting your cucumbers, squash and assorted viney vegetables.

5. Time to plant

If you’re planting seedlings, use your trowel to separate the straw in the shape of a hole and add some sterile planting mix to help cover the exposed roots. If you’re planting seeds, then cover the bales with a one to two-inch layer of planting mix and sew into this seedbed. As the seeds germinate, they’ll grow roots down into the bale itself. While you’re at it, plant some annual flowers into the sides of the bales, or some herbs – it’s otherwise underutilized growing space, and will make the garden a whole lot lovelier.

6. Look, ma – no weeding

If you lay a soaker hose over your bales, you’ve pretty much eliminated all your work until harvest. That’s because your “soil” doesn’t contain weed seeds. There’s one caveat, though – if you didn’t get your straw from a farmer (guilty as charged), there’s a chance your straw (or, worse, hay that was sold as straw) contains its own seed. If your bales start to sprout what looks like grass, you can beat back the Chia pet effect by washing the sprouts with diluted vinegar. If you don’t mind the look though, the grass shouldn’t harm your plants, and will likely die off from the heat produced by the bale’s decomposition.

7. The harvest after the harvest

When the harvest season ends, the bales will be soft, saggy and gray – but that’s exactly what you want. Because when you pile the straw together and leave it to compost over winter, you’ll have a mound of beautiful compost to fill all your pots and planters in the spring.

Nicole Cotroneo Jolly (@nicolecotroneo) is a journalist, filmmaker, and founder of How Does it Grow? – a series of food education videos that trace our food back from the fork to the field.

While everyone has a different technique for stacking the dishwasher, there are a few foolproof tips that guarantee sparkling dishes every time.

So to make things a little easier, consumer advocacy group Choice Australia has shared some of their best advice for stacking and achieving the best clean possible.

From what materials to wash and where to place dirty pots to how to use dishwashing tablets, these are the best tips they had to offer.  

While everyone has a different technique for stacking the dishwasher, there are a few foolproof tips that guarantee sparkling dishes every time 

1. Why you should never place wood, aluminium or copper in the dishwasher

While most things are safe to stack – including everything that has ‘dishwasher safe’ written on it – there are a few exceptions.

You should never put anything made of wood in a dishwasher, namely chopping boards, rolling pins and wooden spoons because the material absorbs every odour and flavour circulating from other dirty dishes.  

Good knives and fine china should also be avoided because the water pressure and corrosive detergent can blunt your knives and ruin the detailing on those previous pieces of crockery.

Anything that contains a ‘reactive metal’ – which is prone to corroding over time – is also best washed by hand.

That means anything with aluminium and copper – including non-stick pans – should be hand washed.

While most things are safe to stack inside the appliance – including everything that has the words ‘dishwasher safe’ written on it – there are a few exceptions

2. Why you don’t need to bother pre-washing dishes

Your favourite dishwashing tablets should have enough power to remove all manner of surface stains without you having to thoroughly wash your plates beforehand, but you should scrape all food scraps in the bin before putting them in the dishwasher.

This prevents clogging the filter, which will only make it harder for your dishwasher to do its job.

Speaking of the filter, it should be cleaned once a week to stop unnecessary build-up.

Speaking of the filter, it should be cleaned once a week to stop unnecessary build-up

3. Why you should place the dirtiest dishes in the middle

Placement is key for getting a cleaner wash every time.

Plastics should go on the top shelf to reduce the risk of melting, as should glass to prevent it shattering.

Because the spinning fan can sometimes miss the corners of the dishwasher it’s best to place very dirty pots and pans in the middle of the stackable shelves for maximum effectiveness.

Also make sure all plates and bowls face downward to avoid dirty water sitting in it and don’t stack them right on top of each other. 

Leaving a gap will ensure water and soap can get between the dishes to wash them.

When the wash is complete open the dishwasher as soon as possible and pull out the trays. The heat from the wash will dry the dishes faster. 

Because the spinning fan can sometimes miss the corners of the dishwasher it’s best to place very dirty pots and pans in the middle of the stackable shelves for maximum effectiveness

4. Why you shouldn’t put some dishwashing tablets in the dispenser 

If you’re using anything with the name ‘3-in-1’ or ‘multi tab’ in it then it’s actually more beneficial to put them at the bottom of your machine, not in the dispenser.

They’re not designed to be placed there because they won’t be released in the same way a single brick tablet would.

The 3-in-1 tablets have a section to them that are meant for the pre-wash stage but the dispenser doesn’t open until the main wash has begun, thus rendering 1/3 of the tablet null and void. 

If you’re using anything with the name ‘3-in-1’ or ‘multi tab’ in it then it’s actually more beneficial to put them at the bottom of your machine, not in the dispenser

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Choice’s four tips for stacking your dishwasher for a cleaner wash 

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Here’re 11 Herbs that Grow from Cuttings, it’s an easy and less time-consuming method than seed propagation.

You can save a lot of money by growing herbs from cuttings. And, don’t forget it’s an easy way to multiply your herbs and less time consuming as well.

Growing Herbs from Cuttings

There are three types of cuttings which are Softwood Cuttings, Semi-hardwood cuttings, and hardwood cuttings:

Softwood cuttings are taken from the young and tender stem growth when they’re green, as the stem starts to change from green to brown and become hard and old, the cuttings that are taken at this time are known as hardwood cuttings.

Usually, the success rate from softwood cuttings is higher than hardwood cuttings, which means you should prefer the cuttings from the new growth instead of old growth as they are most likely to grow roots.

Take cuttings using a sharp tool; cuttings must be at least 3-6 inches long. Take the cuttings at an angle just below a leaf node. A leaf node is where a leaf is attached. Remove all the lower set of leaves from the cuttings except the top few, so that the energy could be focused only on the root generation.

You can grow them in either soil or water. Soil is preferable as it provides the necessary nutrients for plants to grow. To increase the propagation rate, before planting, drop the node end of the cuttings into the water and then dip them in rooting hormone. Rooting hormone will stimulate the root growth. You can use a commercial rooting hormone or make your own at home. You can use honey or aspirin for this purpose, learn more about this here.

1. Thyme

This amazing herb has been used for thousands of years for medicinal and culinary uses. Cuttings should be taken at a node from the point where leaves grow, as roots are most responsive at this point. The cuttings should be planted in damp soil and away from the direct sun after removing lower leaves.

2. Basil

One of the best herbs that grow from cuttings. Propagating basil will keep the supply of this herb going year around. All you have to do is cleave a basil stem (about 4-5 inches long) just below the leaf node, and follow the steps we shared above. You can also place the basil cutting in the glass of water near the windowsill, so it gets sufficient sunlight and grow roots. Avoid taking cuttings from the flowering part.

3. Sage

With its refreshing mood fragrance and essential oils, sage is a must-have herb in your garden. Growing sage from cuttings is super easy: Take the cutting from a shoot approximately 6 cm below the node. Plant this cutting in moist soil and place it in a spot where it can receive morning sunlight. You can also grow cuttings in a glass of water to multiply your sage plants. Within two weeks roots will start to appear!

4. Lavender

The best time to grow lavender from cuttings is in the summer season as they root easily in this season. You will need Lavender plant, sharp knife, a small 10 cm pot, multi-purpose compost, Rooting hormone (liquid or powder), clear polythene bags to propagate lavender plants. Check the detailed step by step DIY available here.

5. Rosemary

Growing rosemary from seeds is tedious work, so it’s better to propagate it from cuttings. Snip off 3-6 inches non-flowering shoots, and remove all the lower leaves so that only 2-3 top leaves are left. Keep the cuttings in cold frame or any sheltered and shaded space until they root in the next few weeks.

6. Oregano

This herb requires very less attention and can be grown indoor or outdoor. Oregano thrives in a moderately warm climate and is a hardy perennial. To propagate, take a few inches long cuttings from a healthy oregano plant. It is better to take the cuttings from the young shoots as they are more likely to sprout roots. Remove the leaves from the bottom half. Plant it in the lightweight porous soil.

7. Mint

Mint is a very popular herb that can be used either fresh or in dried form in many dishes. Mint has one of the highest antioxidant properties compared to many other herbs. Growing mint from cuttings is as easy as growing it, in both the soil and water. Roots start to appear mostly within a week.

8. Sweet Woodruff

This herb has multiple uses and is most well known as an ingredient in May wine. It does not only have the culinary uses, but it also works as an excellent ground cover in the garden. It thrives in partial shade and shade, so should be planted under trees. Its fragrance resembles freshly-mown hay or vanilla. Once planted this herb thrives on its own if watered regularly. If you want to plant them at some other place, you can propagate this herb easily from cuttings.

9. Bee Balm

This herb has both culinary and medicinal uses. These plants bear bright flowers that attract butterflies and possess a minty fragrance which makes them ideal for bordering. The best time to propagate this herb by cuttings in late springs. Cut a 6-inch stem tip without flowers. Remove the leaves from the bottom half and dip the cutting in rooting hormone. Stick the cutting two inches deep in a small pot filled with well-aerated soil.

10. Marjoram

Marjoram is a versatile herb and has many uses in cooking and is also used in aromatherapy. This herb has many health benefits. Seed germination is slow, and it takes approximately 2 weeks to germinate. Propagating marjoram is an easy way to multiply this herb in a short period. Take cuttings from the tip of the stem which is not less than 3 inches in length. Leave 4-6 leaves from the top and remove all other leaves. You should plant cuttings in late summer or early springs. In a hot climate, do this in winters.

11. Parlsey

Growing parsley from cuttings is possible, but the success rate is low. For this, take 4-5 inches long stem with some leaves on top and place it an inch deep in the pot. Maintain the moisture and keep the cutting in a shady spot that receives indirect light, wait for a couple of weeks for the emergence of roots.